Manufacture of shaped textile materials



Patented Jan. 18, 1949 usrrso STATES PATENT OFF-ICE REANUFACTURE OF SHAPED TEXTILE MATERIALS George Schneiden'liiontclair, N. J., and Alfred J.

Steinberger, Jamaica, N. Y., assignors to Celanose Corporation of America, a corporation'of Delaware No Drawing. Application March 9, 1946, Serial No. 653,431

16 Claims.

This invention relates to the manufacture of shaped textile articles, and relates more particularly to the manufacture of shaped articles of wearing apparel from textile materials made of or containing a thermoplastic derivative of to the normal practice of using'size or lacquer.

A further object of this invention is to provide a process for the manufacture of artificial straw hats from braids prepared from filaments or fibers made of or containing cellulose acetate.

Other objects and advantages of this invention will appear from the following detailed descripvtion.

In prior practices, certain hat bodieswere made from ribbons or braids of textile materials by first making a button of the ribbon or braid, which button forms the tip of the hat body, then winding the ribbon or braid spirally aroundsaid button and sewing together the contiguous edges. In order that the ribbon or braid be readily handled by the operative during the sewing operation, the ribbon or braid was stiffened by the application thereto of a suitable size such as starch, for example. Certain other hat bodies were made from fabric webs by drawing the same over suitable forms. After the hat body was formed a lacquer was applied thereto and dried. The lacquered hat body was then placed .in a suitable mold and shaped into the form of a hat under the action of heat and pressure, the lacquer imparting to the hat the desired stillness.

We have found that hats can be-formed more simply and expeditiously, without the necessity of using size or lacquer, by employing fabrics, ribbons or braids of plasticized textile materials, made of or containing a thermoplasticderivative of cellulose, to make the hat bodies and then shaping such hat bodies into the form of hatdesired with the aid of heat and pressure. Under the influence of heat, the thermoplastic derivative of cellulose textile materials soften sufiiciently to assume the shape of the forming device and upon cooling stifi'en .into such shape.

The hats so formed retaintheir shape substantially permanently and do not .lose their shape when exposed to'moisture such as rain, orwater when washed.

In accordance withour invention, thethermoplastic derivative of cellulose textile materials, either before or after they .are woven, knitted, netted or braided in fabrics, ribbons or braids, are plasticized witha suitable .plasticizer for the thermoplastic derivative of cellulose. Theixthermoplastic derivative of cellulose textile-material may be plasticized. in any suitable manner. Thus, the plasticizer maybe incorporated in the materials by the addition of the plasticizer to the solution of the thermoplastic:derivative of cellu- .lose from which the filaments tobe processed into fabrics, ribbons or braids are spun, or by apply- .ingthe plasticizerto the formedfilaments, fabrics, :ribbons or braids, inithe presence of a swelling agent for :thethermoplastic derivative of fcellulose,:.byidipping,hand dipping in the case of filaments, ribbonsland braids, the same in a solution of the plasticizerin a volative solventtherefor, or by running :the same throughthe plasticizer solution. The solvent for the plasticizer should preferably be, a volatile I liquid, such as ethyl alcoholor isopropyl alcohol, which acts as aswelling agent for thegparticular thermoplasticcellulose derivative-so as to causetheplasticizer to penetrate into the filament and be retained therein when the solvent evaporates. We have foundthat highly desirable results are obtained :by applying the; plasticizers to the formed'materials from a solution of the plasticizer in isopropyl alcohol and then immediatelydryingithe same at controlled temperatures, preferably by subjecting the materialstothe action of temperatureson the order of to 220 F. for a period-offrom 1 to 10 minutes.

The amount of 'plasticizer that may be employed in the solution depends largely on its plastifying properties, on thederivative of cellulose being treated and upon the degree of pliability desired from the plasticized'product. We have found that solutions of plasticizers .COIltaining from 10 to 35%, and preferably from 20 to 30%, based on the weight of the product, give excellent results for the purpose :of the-present invention. Any suitable plasticizer of relatively high boiling point which will supply sulfioient stiffness tothe fabric, ribbon or braid so that it may be moreeasily-handled may be employed in accordance with our invention. However, the plasticizers should be such which will not only give stiffness to the fabric,:ribbonor'braid, which stiffness should be substantially retained after the plasticizer is removed therefrom but the plasticizers employed should also be readily removable from the textile materials. Thus, we may employ plasticizers such as ethylene glycol, diethylene glycol, triethylene glycol, glycerol, monoacetin, diacetin, ethyl oxybutyrate and formal glycerol which may be removed readily from the filaments by a scouring with water. We prefer to employ plasticizers which are removable by the use of benzol, carbon tetrachloride, trichlorethylene, or other organic solvent namely such plasticizers as tricresyl phosphate, triphenyl phosphate, para toluene sulphonamide, dibutyl tartrate, triethyl citrate and dimethoxy ethyl phthalate. We have found that optimum results, with respect to stiffening the fabric, ribbon or braid to the desired degree, is obtained by the use of dimethoxy ethyl phthalate, particularly dissolved in isopropyl alcohol.

The solvent preferably is one that readily dissolves the plasticizer employed, yet has little or no softening action on the thermoplastic derivative of cellulose and effect materials, such as pigments, filling materials, dyes or lakes, if effectmoving all of the plasticizers employed in the mixture.

The shaping of the hat body formed of the fabric, ribbon or braid is effected under such conditions'of temperature that the thermoplastic derivative of cellulose textile materials are softened but not fused underthe prevailing conditions. The temperature of treatment will vary not only with the nature of the particular thermoplastic 4 shaping mechanism in which a hollow form of composite material made of vulcanized duck and rubber is adapted to receive the hat body. The top of this form is of the configuration to which it is desired. to shape the crown of the hat. While the top of this form is hard, the wall is flexible. This form comprises the male member of a mold and cooperates with a femalemember of aluminum which is heated. The mold is provided with aluminum flanges for shaping the brim. A soft rubber bag is provided for entering the hollow male member. The rubber bag has supplied thereto water under pressure, which pressure may be up to 200 pounds per square inch. The pressure of the water in the bag causes the expansion of the flexible wall of male member and also forces the top of the male member down derivative of cellulose present in the textile material of the fabric, ribbon or braid, but also with the prevailing conditions, such as the amount of water or steam present, if water is employed. However, we prefer not to employ water or steam. Thus, if the hat body made of fabric, ribbons or braids containing acetone-soluble cellulose acetate is shaped between or on forming devices in the absence ofwateror steam, the temperature of such devices should preferably be above 125 C. While the upper temperature limitshould be below 180 C. in order to avoid fusing of the celf lulose acetate filaments. We have found, however, that by shaping the hat body made of fabrics,'ribbons. or braids of acetone-soluble cellulose acetate on metal-forms which have at least one layer of felt or other suitable fabric or cloth covering the metal surfaces, fusing of the textile materials is substantially avoided.

In carrying out the shaping operation, any suitable devices and expedients may be employed. For instance, the fiat textile material may be placed "between the male and female members of mold-like devices of desired shape, either or both of which may be heated internally or externally by ordinary steam, superheated steam, steam under pressure, electrical resistance, flames and the like. Such devices may be provided with means, such as perforations or jets, to supply steam to the textile material in order to facilitate the shaping of the same. textile material may be placed over a heated form and drawn over or pressed upon such form under suitably applied tension until the desired shape is imparted. However, in shaping the hat bodies made in accordance with this invention into the form of a hat, we prefer to employ a Wards. forced against the wall and bottom of the female member thus shaping it, to the mold design.

Any suitable thermoplastic derivative of cellulose may be employed in accordance with the present invention, particularly organic derivatives of cellulose, such as organic esters of cellulose and cellulose ethers. Examples of organic esters of cellulose are cellulose acetate, cellulose propionate, cellulose butyrate, while examples of cellulose ethers are methyl cellulose, ethylcellulose and benzyl cellulose. The fabrics, ribbons or braids may consist ,of one or a mixture ofthermoplastic derivativeof cellulose textile materials, or they may contain in addition to the thermoplastic derivative of cellulose, other textile materials such as cotton, silk, regenerated cellulose, etc.

By way of describing my invention still further and not with the intention of limitingits scope thereby, the following specific example-is given:

. Example The braid prepared from yarns having a basis of an acetone-soluble cellulose acetateis dipped in a solution of 30% dimethoxy ethylphthalate in isopropyl alcohol. The treated braid is passed.

a slightly stiff condition and, thus, more con veniently handled during the sewing operation in forming the hat body. The hat body is formed by first twisting the braid spirally beginning at oneend, i; e. forming the button. .After the button is formed, the twisting or winding is continued spirally around the button, to form'the top or crown of the hat, stitching of the contiguous convolutions of the hat isfeifected sub,- stantially simultaneously with the guiding of the braid around the button. After the crown of the hat body is formed the Winding and sewing continues to form the brim thereof.

After the hat body is formed from the'plasticized and extractedbraid, it is molded to shape by the action of heat and pressure. After molding, the hat has the appearance of beingmade from-straw.

Where the braid employed is woven from spun yarns having a basis of an organic derivative of cellulose, such as cellulose acetate, the resulting hat has the appearance of a cloth hat rather than a'straw hat.

For certain types of hats, the crowns and brims A hat body in such a mold would be.

operation.

It is to be understood that the foregoing detailed description is given merely by way of illustration and that many variations may be made therein without departing from the spirit of our invention.

Having described our invention, what we desire to secure by Letters Patent is:

1. The method of producing shaped articles from formed textile materials containing a thermoplastic organic derivative of cellulose, which comprises treating said formed textile materials with a solution of a plasticizer for the organic derivative of cellulose in a volatile solvent for the plasticizer, drying the plasticized textile materials, extracting the plasticizer from the textile materials, and then processing the extracted terials to shape.

2. The method of producing shaped articles from formed textile materials containing a thermoplastic organic derivative of cellulose, which comprises treating said formed textile materials with a to solution of a plasticizer in a volatile solvent therefor, having a swelling action on the organic derivative of cellulose, drying the plasticized textile materials, extracting the plasticizer from the textile materials, and then processin the extracted materials to shape.

3. The method of producing shaped articles from formed textile materials containing a thermoplastic organic derivative of cellulose, which comprises treating said formed textile materials with a 5 to 35% solution of a plasticizer in a volatile solvent therefor, having a swelling action on the thermoplastic organic derivative of cellulose, drying th plasticized textile materials, treating the plasticized textile materials with an extractant to remove said plasticizer, drying the extracted textile materials and then processing said extracted and dried textile materials to shape.

l. The method of producing hats from braid containing a thermoplastic organic derivative of cellulose, which comprises treating said braid with solution of a plasticizer for the thermoplastic organic derivative of cellulose in a volatile solvent therefor, having a swelling action on the thermoplastic organic derivative of cellulose, drying the plasticized braid, extracting the plasticizer from the braid, forming a hat body from said braid, and then molding said hat body into the shape of a hat.

5. The method of producing hats from braid containing a thermoplastic organic derivative of cellulose, which comprises treating said braid with a 5 to 35% solution of a plasticizer in a volatile solvent therefor, having a swelling action on the thermoplastic organic derivative of cellulose, drying the plasticized braid, extracting the plasticizer from the braid, forming a hat body from said braid, and then molding said hat body into the shape of a hat.

6 The method of producing hats from braid containing a thermoplastic organic derivative of cellulose, which comprises treating said braid with a 5 to 35% solution of a plasticizer in a volatile solvent therefor, having a swelling action on the thermoplastic organic derivative of cellulose,

drying the plasticized braid, treating the plas ticized braid with an extractant to remove said plasticizer, drying the extracted braids, forming a hat body from said braid, and then molding said hat body into the shape of a hat.

7. The method of producing shaped articles from formed textile materials containing cellulose acetate, which comprises treating said formed textile materials with a 5 to 35% solution of a plasticizer in a volatile solvent therefor, having a .swelling action on the cellulose acetate, drying the plasticized textile materials, treating the plasticized textile materials with an extractant to remove said plasticizer, drying the extracted textile materials and then processing said extracted and dried textile materials to shape.

8. The method of producing hats from braid containing cellulose acetate, which comprises treating said braid with a solution of dimethoxy ethyl phthalate in a volatile solvent therefor having a swelling action on said cellulose acetate, drying said treated braid, extracting said dimethoxy ethyl phthalate from said braid, forming a hat body from said extracted braid, and then molding said hat body into the shape of a hat.

9. The method of producing hats from braid containing cellulose acetate, which comprises treating said braid with a solution of dimethoxy '4; ethyl phthalate in isopropyl alcohol, drying said treated braid, extracting said dimethoxy ethyl phthalate from said braid, forming a hat body from said extracted braid, and then molding said hat body into the shape of a hat.

10. The method of producing hats from braid containing cellulose acetate, which comprises treating said braid with a 20 to 30% solution of dimethoxy ethyl phthalate in isopropyl alcohol, drying said treated braid, extracting said di- "1 methoxy ethyl phthalate from said braid, forming a hat body from said extracted braid, and then molding said hat body into the shape of a hat.

11. The method of producing hats from braid containing cellulose acetate, which comprises treating said braid with a 20 to 30% solution of dimethoxy ethyl phthalate in isopropyl alcohol, drying said treated braid at an elevated temperature, extracting said dimethoxy ethyl phthalate from said braid, forming a hat body from said extracted braid, and then molding said hat body into the shape of a hat.

12. The method of producing hats from braid containing cellulose acetate, which comprises treating said braid with a 20 to 30% solution of dimethoxy ethyl phthalate in isopropyl alcohol, drying said treated braid at a temperature of to 220 F. for 1 to 5 minutes, extracting said dimethoxy ethyl phthalate from said braid, forming a hat body from said extracted braid, and then molding said hat body into the shape of a hat.

13. The method of producing hats from braid containing cellulose acetate, which comprises treating said braid with a 20 to 30% solution of dimethoxy ethyl phthalate in isopropyl alcohol, drying said treated braid at a temperature of 180 to 220 F. for 1 to 5 minutes, treating the plasticized braid with ethyl ether to remove the dimethoxy ethyl phthalate, forming a hat body from the extracted braid, and then molding said body into the shape of a hat.

14. The method of producing hats from braid containing cellulose acetate, which comprises treating said braid with a 20 to 30% solution of dimethoxy ethyl phthalate in isopropyl alcohol,

7 drying said treated braid at a temperatureofxl80 to 220 F, for 1, to 5,,minutes, treating the plasticized braid with ethyl ether to remove the dimethoxy ethyl phthalate, air drying the extracted braid,.forming,a.hat bodyirom the eX: tracted braid, andlthen. molding said body into theshapeofahat;

15. The method of producing hats from braid containing cellulose acetate, which comprises treating said braid with a 20 .to 30% solution of dimethoxy ethyl phthalate in isopropyl' alcohol, pressing out substantially all of the said solution fromsaid braid,- dryinglsaidl treated .braidjto. a temperature of 180 to 220 F.-.for.1 to 5. minutes, treating the plasticized'braid withethyl ether to remove the dimethoxy ethyl phthalate, air drying the extracted braid, forming a vhatlbody from theextracted braid, andthenmolding-said body into the shape of a hat. 7 V H 16. The methodof producing hats from braid made of or containing spun yarns having a basis ofcellulose acetate, which comprises treating said braid with a 20 to 30% solution of dimethoxy ethyl phthalate in isoprobyl alcohol, pressing out substantially all of the said solution from said braid, drying said treated braid at a temperature I tracted, braid, forming a, hat body from the extracted braid, and then molding said body -int0 the shape of a hat.

GEORGE SCHNEIDER. ALFRED J. S'I'EINBERGER.

REFERENCES CITED J The following references are of record in the file of this patent: I H v V UNITED-STATES PATENTS Number Name Date 2,047,230 Schneider July-14,1936 2,047,239 Whitehead July 14, 1936 2,047,240 Whitehead July 14, 1936 Dreyfus Aug. 1, 1944-. 

